Thursday, December 4, 2014



Most of you recall I lost my tranny due to a fluid leak that I missed.  My hatch has a console sitting on it that must be moved before it can be
raised.  This is not conducive to frequent fluid checking.

At the Wisconsin rally I purchased a long shaft tranny tube.  I also took a look at Ken Henderson's.  He uses a 3/8 brake line for the tube to the
front and brazed it into the original tube.  He uses a piece of 1/8" wire rope for the dipstick and both the original and new dipsticks both are in
their tubes and work.  That is, he can use either one.  The newer long wire rope dipstick was 'calibrated' to match the fluid level as show on the
original tube.  Clever guy our Mr. Henderson is.  :d

I had a couple goals:

1- Allow flex between the motor and the hard mount of the long tube.  Manny doesn't like long tubes because as the motor moves, it causes the dipstick
tube to rock in the differential hole and damage the O-ring.  Don't want that to happen....again....  8o :blush:

2- Contrary to what Ken did, I want to be able to add fluid without lifting the hatch.

Ok, here we go.  I'm not saying this is THE way to do this, it might not work well but this time, I've got better temp gauges on the tranny fluid and
a pressure gauge as well so, hopefully, I'll be able to spot any problems before any damage is done.

I fit the original dipstick in place and determined where any branch off had to be to clear the half shaft.  I then bought some 3/4" hard copper tube.
 A piece of steel electrical conduit (EMT) would have worked fine also but I don't like welding galvanized or cleaning the galvanization off so copper
it was.  I cut a fishmouth at the desired angle and the marked where the cutout would be on the original tube.  This was then cut out and the edges
cleaned up.

I used a TIG welder with silicone bronze rod.  I could have just as easily brazed it with a torch or probably a MAPP gas unit or even propane torch
but I've got the TIG so...

To ensure no pinholes weeped, I painted the weld area with epoxy.

The LONG tube was painted and turned around so I could use the bracket to mount it.

This is the modified original tube in place with a NEW O-ring.  :blush:

Below you can see the new long tube inserted through the congestion of the under hood area and front of the engine.  It is currently BESIDE the new

Here is the long tube inside the "Y".  It slips in about an inch and a half.  There is enough 'slop' so that as the engine moves it will allow the
long tube to flex at this joint.  It's mounted hard up front.

And here is the joint with a hose clamped over each end to keep 'stuff' out and fluid in.

On the front end, I cut off the long dipstick.  When I get the transmission fluid level correct, I'll calibrate the new wire rope for the correct
fluid level and weld it to the end of the fancy dipstick.  The business end of the rope is welded solid so it won't catch on anything or unwind.  I'll
do something similar to mark the desired fluid levels.

That's it.  I'm planning on checking my fluid quite frequently.  Changing these transmissions is not much fun. :lol:  :lol:  :lol:

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