DIP STICK REPLACEMENT
Pinkerton
Most of you recall I lost my tranny due to a fluid leak that I missed.
My hatch has a console sitting on it that must be moved before it can be
raised. This is not conducive to frequent fluid checking.
At the Wisconsin rally I purchased a long shaft tranny tube. I also
took a look at Ken Henderson's. He uses a 3/8 brake line for the tube
to the
front and brazed it into the original tube. He uses a piece of 1/8"
wire rope for the dipstick and both the original and new dipsticks both
are in
their tubes and work. That is, he can use either one. The newer long
wire rope dipstick was 'calibrated' to match the fluid level as show on
the
original tube. Clever guy our Mr. Henderson is. :d
I had a couple goals:
1- Allow flex between the motor and the hard mount of the long tube.
Manny doesn't like long tubes because as the motor moves, it causes the
dipstick
tube to rock in the differential hole and damage the O-ring. Don't want that to happen....again.... 8o :blush:
2- Contrary to what Ken did, I want to be able to add fluid without lifting the hatch.
Ok, here we go. I'm not saying this is THE way to do this, it might not
work well but this time, I've got better temp gauges on the tranny
fluid and
a pressure gauge as well so, hopefully, I'll be able to spot any problems before any damage is done.
I fit the original dipstick in place and determined where any branch off
had to be to clear the half shaft. I then bought some 3/4" hard copper
tube.
A piece of steel electrical conduit (EMT) would have worked fine also
but I don't like welding galvanized or cleaning the galvanization off so
copper
it was. I cut a fishmouth at the desired angle and the marked where the
cutout would be on the original tube. This was then cut out and the
edges
cleaned up.
I used a TIG welder with silicone bronze rod. I could have just as
easily brazed it with a torch or probably a MAPP gas unit or even
propane torch
but I've got the TIG so...
To ensure no pinholes weeped, I painted the weld area with epoxy.
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/front-transmission-dipstick/p56607-modified-original-tran.html
The LONG tube was painted and turned around so I could use the bracket to mount it.
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/front-transmission-dipstick/p56609-toranado-long-dipstick.html
This is the modified original tube in place with a NEW O-ring. :blush:
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/front-transmission-dipstick/p56610-toranado-long-dipstick.html
Below you can see the new long tube inserted through the congestion of
the under hood area and front of the engine. It is currently BESIDE the
new
"Y".
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/front-transmission-dipstick/p56611-modified-original-dipstick.html
Here is the long tube inside the "Y". It slips in about an inch and a
half. There is enough 'slop' so that as the engine moves it will allow
the
long tube to flex at this joint. It's mounted hard up front.
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/front-transmission-dipstick/p56612-the-two-dipsticks-slip-together-the-long-dipstick-is-used-backward.html
And here is the joint with a hose clamped over each end to keep 'stuff' out and fluid in.
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/front-transmission-dipstick/p56614-some-3-4-hose-and-clamps-keeps-things-leak-free-but-will-allow-the-motor-to.html
On the front end, I cut off the long dipstick. When I get the
transmission fluid level correct, I'll calibrate the new wire rope for
the correct
fluid level and weld it to the end of the fancy dipstick. The business
end of the rope is welded solid so it won't catch on anything or
unwind. I'll
do something similar to mark the desired fluid levels.
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/front-transmission-dipstick/p56613-the-old-bottom-bolts-to-my-electric-windshield-wiper-bracket.html
That's it. I'm planning on checking my fluid quite frequently.
Changing these transmissions is not much fun. :lol: :lol: :lol:
K
